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POKER PARLANCE, TERMINOLOGY, and NICKNAMES
Let’s begin by first identifying the hierarchy of the ‘pocket cards’ you’ll be dealt, and the ‘community cards’ you’ll get to see on ‘The Board’. Plus, since you’re likely familiar with the composition of a deck of 52 cards, you know full well that there are 13 different cards, in 4 different suits; hearts, diamonds, clubs, and spades. The hearts and diamonds are red, and the clubs and spades are black (all of which are on a white background).The 13 ‘Individual Cards’, together with frequently used ‘poker names’ for the cards, and the 1 letter symbol often used to identify the cards, are as follows:
— Ace (Bullet, Rocket, (A))
— King (Cowboy, Monarch, (K))
— Queen (Lady, Dame, Dyke, (Q))
— Jack – (Knave, Hook, Fishhook, (J))
— 10 – Ten (Dime, (T))
— 9 – Nine (Niner, (9))
— 8 – Eight (Snowman, Fat Lady, Ocho, (8))
— 7 – Seven (Hockey Stick, (7))
— 6 – Six – (Boot, (6))
— 5 – Five (Five Spot, (5))
— 4 – Four (Sailboat, Sharp Top, Four spot, (4))
— 3 – Three (Trey, Crab, (3))
— 2 – Two (Deuce, Duck, (2)).
Next, allow me to share with you the often used ‘poker terminology’ for the 13 different pocket pairs that you can be dealt; where, as you’ve previously come to understand, only you can see your ‘pocket cards’. And, at the outset of your introduction to the game, you should come to recognize that you’re going to be dealt a pocket pair, on average, over the long-term, once in approximately every 16 hands.
The pocket pairs, in hierarchical order, and the ‘poker parlance’ for all 13, are as follows:
— AA – Pocket Rockets, Rockets, Bullets, or American Airlines
— KK – Cowboys, King Kong, Gorillas, Kangaroos, Monarchs, or Krispy Kreme
— QQ – Ladies, Hookers, or Siegfried & Roy
— JJ – Fishhooks, Hooks, Jokers, or Jay Birds
— TT – Dimes or Tension
— 99 – Gretzky, Popeye’s, or Phil Hellmuth
— 88 – Snowmen, Fat Ladies, Dog Balls, or Race Tracks
— 77 – HockeySticks, SunsetStrip, or Mullets
— 66 – Route 66, Kicks, or Cherries
— 55 – Presto, Speed Limit, or Nickels
— 44 – Magnum, Sail Boats, or Middle Age
— 33 – Crabs or Treys
— 22 – Ducks, Pocket Swans, or Deuces.
What about some ‘poker lingo’ for most of the ‘generally good’ pocket cards you’ll be dealt. And, frequently, dependent on the table position you currently occupy, as it relates to the Dealer Button (DB), you’ll look to play these cards whenever ‘the price is right’….that is, as long as it’s not going to cost you ‘an arm and a leg’ to see the Dealer lay out ‘The Flop’; the 3 ‘community cards’ to be placed on The Board’ after the ‘Pre-Flop’ betting has finished.
So, the ‘unpaired starting hands’, and most of the ‘poker verbiage’ used to describe the usually playable pocket cards are as follows:
— AK – Big Slick or Walking back to Houston
— AQ – Little Slick, Big Chick, or Doyle Brunson
— AJ – Blackjack, Ajax, or Jackass
— AT – Bookend or Johnny Moss
— A5 – High Five
— A4 – Topped Four
— A3 – Ashtray or Baskin and Robbins
— A2 – Hunting Season or Acey-Deucy
— KQ – Marriage (if suited) or Mixed Marriage (if not suited)
— KJ – Kojak, King John, or Tucson Monster
— KT – Kate or Katie
— QJ – Maverick or Oedipus
— QT – Quentin Tarantino
— JT – Days of Old
— T9 – Paint Plus Connector
— 98 – Oldsmobile
— 87 – RPM
— 76 – Union Oil
— 65 – Medicare
— 54 – Jesse James or Colt.
Additionally, there are some famous ‘poker nicknames’ for a few hands that you might want to be familiar with….players will occasionally use these names, and it would serve no useful purpose for you to be ‘left in the dark’ while they were talking:
— KKK – Alabama Night Riders or Three Wise Men
— TTT – Thirty Miles of Bad Road
— 222 – Huey, Dewey and Louie.
— AA88Q – Dead Man’s Hand
— AKQJT – Broadway
— A5432 – Wheel
— 3 of a Kind – Set (if you hold a pocket pair matched by a ‘community card’
— 3 of a kind – Trips (if one is in your pocket and two are ‘community cards’)
— Full House – Boat or All The In-Laws
— 4 of a Kind – Quads or Quad Set.
reserved by: D. M. Vadnais
THE HIERARCHY OF POKER HANDS – WHAT BEATS WHAT
Now we’re ready for ‘What Beats What’. When you learn to play poker this something you should memorize so that it is as natural as breathing.
The following is the hierarchical order of poker hands:
- 1st….a Royal Flush
- 2nd….a Straight Flush,
- 3rd….Four of a Kind
- 4th….a Full House
- 5th….a Flush
- 6th….a Straight
- 7th….Three of a Kind
- 8th….Two Pairs
- 9th….One Pair
- 10th….High Card.
A ‘Royal Flush’, 1st in the hierarchy of hands, is a Ten/Jack/Queen/King/Ace in the same suit (all 5 cards must be either all diamonds, hearts, clubs, or spades).
A ‘Straight Flush’, 2nd in the hierarchy of hands, is any 5 suited cards in a row; for example, a 5/6/7/8/9 of diamonds is a ‘straight flush’….so is an 8/9/T/J/Q of diamonds. And, while both are straight flushes, the straight flush with the highest card is the better hand. Thus, the Queen high straight flush would beat the Nine high straight flush.
Four of a Kind, 3rd in the hierarchy of hands, is four of the same card….like four Jacks (J/J/J/J), or four Tens (T/T/T/T), or four Deuces (2/2/2/2). Yet, keep in mind, that Jacks are higher than Tens or Deuces….so the 4 Jacks would win.
Next, a Full House, 4th in the hierarchy of hands, is three of a kind combined with a pair….like 3 Queens with 2 Sixes (Q/Q/Q/6/6). Or, 3 Sixes with 2 Queens (6/6/6/Q/Q). Yet, in that the 3 Queens are higher than the 3 Sixes, the Queen high Full House beats the Six high Full House.
Fifth in the hierarchy of hands is a Flush….5 cards in the same suit; like Q/9/8/4/2 of spades. Or, K/9/8/4/3 of spades. Yet, one beats the other….and, the win is determined by the highest card in the Flush. Therefore, given the above, the King high Flush wins.
Sixth in the hierarchy of hands is a Straight….5 cards in a row; like 3/4/5/6/7 (non-suited; if it was suited, it would be a Straight Flush). If there are 2 straights at the end of a hand, the player who holds the higher straight wins the hand; 9/8/7/6/5 beats 7/6/5/4/3.
Three of a Kind, 7th in the hierarchy of hands, is 3 of the same kind….like 9/9/9. Which, as I’m sure is now obvious to you, would beat 6/6/6. Similarly, Q/Q/Q would beat 8/8/8.
Two Pairs, 8th in the hierarchy of hands, is any double pairs that you might hold….like 9/9 and 6/6; or A/A and 3/3. And, again, now obvious to you, the hand with the pair of Aces over the pair of Threes would beat the hand with the pair of Nines over the pair of Sixes. It’s always the higher of the 2 pair that determines the winner.
Ninth in the hierarchy of hands is 1 pair….and, a pair of Aces beats a pair of Kings, a pair of Tens beats a pair of Eights, and a pair of Sevens beats a pair of Fours.
Last, and 10th, in the hierarchy of hands is the High Card. And, it’ll be most infrequent that the winner of the hand is ending up with ‘The Pot’ because he/she held the High Card; meaning that no else who played got at least 1 pair.
So now you know! If you are not already a member of NoPayPOKER join and learn to play poker free online today!
NoPayPOKER is the world’s only FREE poker site where you win real cash on every game with utterly no danger of losing any of your own money. So it is the perfect place for beginners to learn how to play poker online for free! If you are more experienced then it is a great place to fine tune your game, test out new techniques or just grind away to win for real free poker cash with no downside risk.
reserved by:D. M. Vadnais
MOVE ON TO ‘BUILDING A BANKROLL
Okay, you’ve gotten a fundamental introduction to the game, and an introduction to free poker games world of NoPayPoker. And, while it’s one thing to comprehend the structure of the game, it’s an altogether different thing to comprehend how to truly learn how to play poker…the real deal game….more so, how to play the game with an advantage.
Yes! An advantage. Because poker is not a game of chance, it’s a game of skills. The more skills you bring to the poker tables, the more money you’re gonna’ win.
Well, why not attempt to gather up some, many, most, or all of these skills? They are available to you right here at NoPay Poker.
Best of Luck at the Tables,
If you are not already a member of NoPayPOKER join and learn to play poker free online today!
NoPayPOKER is the world’s only FREE poker site where you win real cash on every game with utterly no danger of losing any of your own money. So it is the perfect place for beginners to learn how to play poker online for free! If you are more experienced then it is a great place to fine tune your game, test out new techniques or just grind away to win for real free poker cash with no downside risk.
reserved by: D. M. Vadnais
Management – Your Money, Your Bankroll, and Your Stack
Please understand that in the next three paragraphs I will not be pontificating. Nor, will I be trying to tell you how to run your life….or, how to handle your money. Both of these responsibilities belong to you, and, in all candor, neither is any of my business. But, since I’m about to detail my thoughts on Bankroll Management, Stack Management, and a third subject matter (as all three relate to poker), I wanted to make mention of your first, and foremost, money management priority.
It would be terribly difficult to handle the everyday financial demands you have concerning yourself and your family if you weren’t capable of properly managing your money. Just about everyone has monthly bills for shelter, food, clothing, utilities, transportation, insurance, health, and a myriad of other ‘mail box’ notices calling out for a portion of your hard-earned income.
Then, when all of your monthly obligations have been met, the amount of money remaining in your possession….by the definition of Economists….is known as ‘disposable income’. However, you not only have the task of handling current bills, you also have the task of preparing for future bills. You can label this as ‘Savings’ or ‘Retirement Planning’ or ‘Emergency Funding’.
And, it’s often suggested by money management professionals that a minimum of 15% of your monthly income take an immediate path down the allocation road to ‘preparing for the future’. Clearly, not everyone can do this, not everyone can afford to do this, and, not everyone even knows to do this. That’s it, enough said….the first money management task is history; I made mention of it….you can take it as ever you wish.
NoPay is a free poker site….and, you can only win money; never make a deposit, never suffer a loss of your own funds. Your involvement in the game of poker, however, isn’t always free. Many of you play in Home games, play in Card Room games, play in Brick and Mortar (B &M) Casino games, and play in online poker real money games.
Moreover, just about everything I’ve addressed in this series of Articles was intended by me to be used not only here at NoPay, but also at ‘real money’ games. That being true, the first money management task was important. No one should ever be involved with a real money poker game who has not properly handled their first, and primary, money management responsibility; so, if you can’t afford to play, don’t play.
The second money management consideration deals with playing online poker for real money on the Internet. And, as mentioned above, I suspect that any number of you, from time-to-time, partake in this gaming venue….possibly, some of you do so frequently. Well….I can’t stop you from doing this. But, I can strongly advise against your participation in the Internet poker play community; at any of the ‘real money’ poker sites.
And, I’ll tell you why. With the advent of inexpensive, or free, communication methods….such as cell phones, long-distance land lines, PC messenger services, private chat sites, text messaging, blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, cranberries, raspberries, dummyberries, or whatever….you would have to be fairly unencumbered with intellect to not recognize that many of your opponents are conversing with one another during game play.
Plus, the nature of their chat is not about the weather….it’s about online poker. More specifically, it’s about the hand that you’re currently playing. Fundamentally, you must accept the fact that cheating exists on the Internet. And, you must recognize that cheating is not limited to just communication issues.
Both Absolute Poker and Ultimate Bet Poker recently had software cheating scandals well publicized; as has been the case with a number of other reasonably prominent on line poker sites. And, the bottom line is fairly simple: you don’t belong in a gaming environment where cheating occurs; or, you don’t belong in a gaming environment where the possibility of cheating even exists.
Get away from the ‘real money’ Internet sites, and place yourself in a ‘trusted’ Home Game, an ‘automated shuffle’ local B &M Casino game, or an ‘automated shuffle’ local Card Room game. And, take note, that the ‘automated shuffle’ is an incredibly important consideration. Without it, a dealer and a player could be conspiring against you, and everyone else at your table….with a degree of frequency that you’d spend the better part of a month identifying. Plus, during that month, you’d experience a serious ‘hit’ to your bankroll.
That last word….bankroll….brings us to the third money management topic for this Article. And, while what I am about to convey has bearing on all of your poker playing environments, the central theme to my scribblings will principally relate to your gaming at NoPay….as it should; you’ve spent approximately six or seven months ‘Building a Bankroll’, and you most assuredly should know how to properly manage the bankroll you’ve worked so hard to build. Otherwise, what the hell have we been together for….we ain’t swappin’ spit, and we ain’t cohabiting in the ‘Farm Animal’ pastures.
The primary governance regarding bankroll management (not stack management) is ‘The Rule of 5%’. In rudimentary English, this rule translates to never committing more than 5% of your current bankroll to any gaming venture. If your current bankroll stands at 10,000 FreeD’s, you can not participate in any poker game where it would cost you more than 500 FreeD’s to buy into the game (500 is 5% of 10,000).
Should you lose the 500, you’d be left with a bankroll of 9,500. And, your next foray into the poker gaming enclave would be limited to the use of 5% of the 9,500; or, 475 FreeD’s. Obviously, had you won when you used the 500 FreeD’s, and your bankroll expanded to something like 12,000 FreeD’s, your next foray into the poker gaming enclave would also be limited to the use of 5%….yet, that 5% would now become 600 FreeD’s (600 is 5% of 12,000).
And, any win, or any loss, will always adjust the amount of your bankroll that is available for your use in your next poker session (although nothing is carved in stone mandating that you use 5%; you’re simply limited to the use of up to 5%). The key to the entire function of bankroll management (and the ‘rule of 5%’) is stepping down a notch after you’ve experienced a loss, and stepping up a notch after you’ve experienced a win.
However, there is a well known charter outside the world of poker, and inside the world of business. It’s contained within a book written by Peter Drucker….the title of the book is ‘Management’; and the book is widely used in both undergraduate level, and graduate level, university business classes. (And, no, I’m not asking you to read the book.) Mr. Drucker has identified this charter as the ‘Peter Principle’. And, while he uses it as a tool in the process of management staff promotions….and potential management staff demotions….you need to use it as a tool in bankroll management (again, not stack management).
The ‘Peter Principle’ essentially dictates that a successful individual is promoted through the management ranks as long as he or she can handle the new assignment effectively. Conversely, when a promotion is given to an individual who fails to live up to his or her responsibilities and expectations for the new job, that individual is demoted to the management level where he or she performed their work with a degree of excellence. In effect, promote until the person fails, then demote (back to the management level where exceptional work was done).
This very same principle needs to be applied to your bankroll management efforts. As your bankroll grows, as your skill levels expand, as your winning continues, you should be overtly willing to commit yourself to higher stake levels….this would be particularly true in cash (ring) games. But, it applies as well to tournament buy-in games.
Eventually, though, as is the case in the business world concerning successful executives, the overwhelming majority of all ‘talented’ poker players will one day be caught up in the ‘Peter Principle’. You will have attained a stakes level where you are not only competitive, but where you are a consistent winning player. Then, the proverbial stuff hits the fan just about every time you take a step beyond that level….beyond the level where you’re routinely winning.
The advanced level, the level you’re losing at, is the ‘Peter Principle’ level, and it’s time for a demotion….where you will no longer seek to climb the stakes level ladder; at least temporarily. You have, for the most part, ‘maxed’ out your now-current abilities. And, you must now be content to remain a ‘winning player’ at the demoted level….again, at least temporarily.
Yet, there is no failure associated with the fact that the ‘Peter Principle’ has taken hold. Actually, just the opposite is true, congratulations are in order. You have demonstrated the skill and courage to move through the stakes levels, and, then you’ve demonstrated the wisdom to recognize and respect your limitations….whatever they may be. Plus, as you gain more experience, learn new lessons, advance your skill sets, and move through possible ‘risk tolerance’ issues, the stakes level ladder will always remain available to you.
The fourth segment of money management relates to the way in which you would handle your stack during game play….and, it’s most often referred to as Stack Management. It could, however, also be called Objectives Management; where there are four objectives.
Your primary objective is to survive the tournament beginning….the ‘Farm Animal’ chip flinging. Your secondary objective is to survive the onset of the bubble….dumping the ‘Pinheads’ into the dung filled pastures. Your third objective is to reach the final table….waving goodbye to the herds of Jackasses. And, your last objective is to win the game….thereby fulfilling your ‘Building a Bankroll’ mission.
With limited exception, you’ll use Patience (Article 1) to attain your first goal; sit and watch as the ‘Farm Animals’ toss chips around in a moronic frenzy. A few will survive, most will be trucked off to the confines of the fly-infested, muck-filled dung fields. And, in the course of your visually entertaining observations of the ‘beanbrain’ hysteria, you will have identified the targets for your ensuing premium pocket card play….assuming, of course, that both the dealer and Lady Luck opt to deposit some decent cards in your pockets.
Next, also with limited exception, you’ll use your Playable Pockets Matrix (Article 2) to attain your second goal; surviving the bubble. For the most part, the essence of your game play will be very conservative….you’re not necessarily looking to take the chip lead, you’re principally looking to progressively build your stack; maybe a little at a time, or maybe in a lump sum with the good fortune of being dealt pocket Kings or Aces that hold up through the river.
Once you’re in the money, once you’ve gotten by the bubble, it may well serve your interests to moderately shift your style of play. After all, you should, at this point, be fully cognizant of who the bad players are, who the good players are, who the aggressive players are, and who the timid players are. And, all of that information combined should be used by you to dictate the degree to which you move into a semi-aggressive posture. The meek do not win tournaments; they merely collect a portion of the prize pool.
The prelude to the ultimate goal is now in sight….you’ve made the final table; it’s time to garner a tourney title. How? Well….it’s not easy! But, you know your opponents, you know your skill level, you have a complete command of Pot Odds, and you understand the importance of table position. So, put on your very best ‘game play’ hat and shades, softly whisper a pleasant greeting to Lady Luck (you’re gonna need her at least once), and cast any form of timidity aside….the winner is most often the aggressor.
Plus, it’s fitting that stack size now becomes one of the most significant components of final table play….especially since the subject matter contained within the last few paragraphs has been stack management. If you’re the low stack, and you’re dealt any worthwhile pocket cards, your play is going to be super aggressive. Alternately, if you’re the high stack, maintain the semi-aggressive posture that got you to the final table in the first place….let your opponents knock heads, and watch them depart the game one by one.
If your mid-stacked, play the advantaged game you’ve come to learn, be ever mindful of Pot Odds, completely ignore Implied Odds (they serve almost no useful purpose in final table play), be certain that all of your bets are equal to the size of the pot, try to slow-play any ‘nuts’ hand that you hold, and always be extremely attentive to the Big Blind/Small Blind hands whenever there is a ‘no pre-flop raise’ situation. These two seats have the potential to turn pocket rag/rag into a monster hand if a terrible flop hits the board.
Best of Luck at the Tables
Michael
(c) copyright 2008; no reproduction, all rights reserved by D. M. Vadnais
Free Poker Guide To What You Can Do When You’re Trapped By Better Players in Tournaments
Typically, the sage advice for average poker players who are more used to free poker who find themselves playing a pot against good players is for the average player not to play the pot at all. In cash games, in a table surrounded by good players, the “novice player” only has to leave and find an easier table.
But in tournament poker, it is not so simple to avoid being trapped on a table with some good or even exceptionally talented poker players.
A good player can defeat a novice player because a good player knows the general pattern of a novice player, given the Board cards, the novice’s actions and his position. Good players can also put them on a hand.
They will know if a player is holding a suited connector; a pocket pair, or even, in some extreme cases, a Set. They can play a Straight weakly (or even fold it occasionally) when the Board pairs and the novice suddenly pours down his chips.
Let us make some systematic analysis about our novice player.
A player is said to “win” a pot, for our purposes, if:
- (A) He wins the hand in a showdown or
- (B) He makes all his opponents fold.
Suppose he tries to win under the condition (a) – to win in a showdown.
- Then the novice player will have to pass through the preflop, flop, turn and river against the good player.
- At each stage the good player will get more information from the novice player than the novice player can get from the good player.
He can continue to showdown and probably win a big pot, if he keeps on value-betting our novice. Or he may lose a small pot, if he slows down and just checks. Or he can make the novice fold.
Suppose our novice now tries (b) to make his opponents fold.
- Let us assume the Board will help him only a little, and his hand, from the flop up to the river, will not be of showdown quality.)
- During the flop, turn, and the river, the good player will extract more inferences from the Board cards than the novice player will.
- If our novice, who usually has the tendency to get excited, overrepresents a hand unnecessarily, then he will just be called by the good player (unless he plays really strongly, but he can’t overdo this either).
1. Your cards.
2. Your perception of your opponents’ cards.
3. The Board cards.
4. Tells your opponent gives away.
5. Tells you give away to your opponent.
6. Previous tendencies of each player.
7. Position.
Both the novice and the good player has (1) and (3), but the good player’s judgement is usually more accurate with all these criteria.
A good player, for instance, will believe that 8-7 (his cards) are not so nice-looking in a flop of 10-7-3 (the Board cards), but a novice player may think they’re powerful.
As for (4), (5), and (6) which stems from (1), (2) and (3), the good player is usually more aware of these. And good players care more for (7) than novice ones.
So if our novice wants to play a pot against a good player, he cannot really rely fully on the information above, for he cannot interpret it well.
So our novice should find a spot in which the good player also cannot rely on most of the information above, so that they will be on equal footing.
When is it? Answer: Preflop. How to play? All-in.
- Preflop, your perception of your opponent’s cards is less accurate than after the flop falls.
- Also, because there are no Board cards yet, tells are less reliable.
- Finally, because a novice is less likely to have previous tendencies resulting from experience, the good player has little hold on (6).
- And preflop all-ins are dependent on hand strength more than position.
- Don’t call yourself all-in, however, unless you have a premium hand.
- Once your opponent does this move, if he is a good opponent, he knows you are vulnerable.
- When he does want a showdown, he is deprived of postflop information that will increase his chances of making an good decision.
- At this point, although the good player is still good, he has to play in terms of novice play.
Whereas if you take him to the Flop, he will have more opportunities to play his 7-7 better than you would play your A-K, and you will be defeated most of the time.
Let us say your chance to win above is just 25% postflop; why not take the 50-50 instead?
Summing up What You Can Do When You’re Trapped By Good Players in Tournaments
Find free poker tournaments an/or cash games where you can take on better players with no or low risk, this is a great way to improve!
The fact is that It takes some time to learn how to play poker online or offline at a level above the unthinking donk “chip flinging” seen on many free poker tables. Most players it seems can’t or won’t put the time in, they claim to play just for fun which misses out on the key fact that winning lots of money and beating all these “fun” players is a lot more fun!
Yet this is great news for you as a player who aims to learn to play well. That’s because once you learn how to play online poker with above average skill and are able to combat the “all-in-all the time” donk maniacs then you can take them apart in coldly calculated massacres anytime you like. This can mean really good easy money in low stakes money online games and in free online poker games that pay out real cash such as those found at NoPayPOKER
To make this work first, play free poker tournaments lots at NoPay and learn to play poker free where you can learn while you lose but without losing real money, then once ready to can move up to low stakes and start to make some serious poker cash!.
Free Online Poker Guide To Reading Set Hands
Whether you just play free poker with us at NoPayPOKER or play with house sized buy-ins in Monaco the Set is one of the hardest poker hands of all to read.
It consists of a pocket pair and one of the Board cards with the same rank as the pocket pair.
For example, if you have 5-5 and the Board reads 5-4-10-J-K, you have a Set of Fives.
Sets are unreadable because most players are accustomed to reading (a) two different hole cards, (b) high cards or overpairs, (c) draws that complete the Board, or (d) cards anyway related to the Board cards.
Given that your hand reading habits usually are a combination of limiting possible hands to the given characteristics, how would you put someone on 5-5 or 4-4 when it is much easier for you to put him on A-K (for top pair, best kicker), A-Q (for a made Straight), or K-10 or 5-4 (for Two-Pair), or even A-A (a high pair)?
Sometimes you may even put him on one Five, say, 6-5. But on two Fives or two Fours? These are why Sets are very potent in Boards which have no Straight or Flush potential.
However, suppose in a Flop of Q-7-2 with no Straight or Flush possibilities, you have 2-2.
Here because you are the one who moved all-in, the outcome of the hand is not fully on your control; it’s up to whether your opponent calls or not.
But suppose the situation is reversed. The player with the Q-Q checks, you bet, then the response is a raise all-in. What would you do?
When you are slammed in a situation like this (which usually occurs on the Flop) on a cash game, take it as it is. Pay him off. Some other time you will have the Q-Q, some other player will have the 2-2, and you will be paid off.
But in a tournament, you have plenty of givens to consider (and you might want to consider these even in an ordinary cash game).
You might want to reason out:
It might also be with A-A or with K-K (most probably it is) but it might also be just with Q-Q.
If I put him on those three hands, there is a 2/3 chance I’m right, but a 1/3 chance of wrong, and when I’m wrong I will be busted. So I’ll fold.
If you have the middle Set (Set of Sevens), the same analysis may also apply. But you will be much safer because there is only one Set to kill you instead of the two a possible Sets a while ago.
If you have the Set of Queens, enjoy! The above analysis is agonizing and painstaking, especially when it all amounts to giving up one of the most cherished hands in Hold’Em.
Summing up Reading Sets
It takes some time to learn how to read hands, it’s not something the unthinking donk “chip flingers” seen on many free poker tables even consider. Most players it seems can’t or won’t put the time in, they claim to play just for fun which misses out on the key fact that winning lots of money is a lot more fun!
I think it’s crazy that so many people play with so little skill and almost revel in the fact! But this is also very good news for you as one of the few who is learning to play well. The reason why is that when you really learn how to play poker well you can go mercenary and hunt the “fun donks” down in low stakes real money games as well as LINK sites that pay out real money while you happily build your skills and bankroll!
As ever practice makes perfect so read, understand and play free poker at NoPayPOKER to learn to play poker online free and get your skills finely honed before going onward and kicking some ass.
It consists of a pocket pair and one of the Board cards with the same rank as the pocket pair.
For example, if you have 5-5 and the Board reads 5-4-10-J-K, you have a Set of Fives.
Sets are unreadable because most players are accustomed to reading (a) two different hole cards, (b) high cards or overpairs, (c) draws that complete the Board, or (d) cards anyway related to the Board cards.
Given that your hand reading habits usually are a combination of limiting possible hands to the given characteristics, how would you put someone on 5-5 or 4-4 when it is much easier for you to put him on A-K (for top pair, best kicker), A-Q (for a made Straight), or K-10 or 5-4 (for Two-Pair), or even A-A (a high pair)?
Sometimes you may even put him on one Five, say, 6-5. But on two Fives or two Fours? These are why Sets are very potent in Boards which have no Straight or Flush potential.
However, suppose in a Flop of Q-7-2 with no Straight or Flush possibilities, you have 2-2.
- You check (hoping to trap him), the other player bets.
- You raise all in then he immediately calls and reveals Q-Q.
- You thought your opponent had A-Q or K-Q.
- How is this possible? It’s possible. Even in this spot you are more susceptible.
Here because you are the one who moved all-in, the outcome of the hand is not fully on your control; it’s up to whether your opponent calls or not.
But suppose the situation is reversed. The player with the Q-Q checks, you bet, then the response is a raise all-in. What would you do?
When you are slammed in a situation like this (which usually occurs on the Flop) on a cash game, take it as it is. Pay him off. Some other time you will have the Q-Q, some other player will have the 2-2, and you will be paid off.
But in a tournament, you have plenty of givens to consider (and you might want to consider these even in an ordinary cash game).
- Compare your stack sizes relative to each other.
- If the difference is great, expect one of you to put his chips in the middle.
- A Set may be the best hand both of you can have to get a double-up.
- If you have the smaller Set get eliminated, attribute it to bad luck.
You might want to reason out:
- I have a Set.
- He raised me enough to put me all-in, or almost.
- He might do it with Q-7, (and whether your opponent had Q-7 or not will depend on what happened preflop.
- If no raise occurred it might be with Q-7, and you can safely call.
- Whether your opponent had 7-7 or not can also come under similar scrutiny) or if there is a raise, it might be with A-Q.
It might also be with A-A or with K-K (most probably it is) but it might also be just with Q-Q.
If I put him on those three hands, there is a 2/3 chance I’m right, but a 1/3 chance of wrong, and when I’m wrong I will be busted. So I’ll fold.
If you have the middle Set (Set of Sevens), the same analysis may also apply. But you will be much safer because there is only one Set to kill you instead of the two a possible Sets a while ago.
If you have the Set of Queens, enjoy! The above analysis is agonizing and painstaking, especially when it all amounts to giving up one of the most cherished hands in Hold’Em.
Summing up Reading Sets
It takes some time to learn how to read hands, it’s not something the unthinking donk “chip flingers” seen on many free poker tables even consider. Most players it seems can’t or won’t put the time in, they claim to play just for fun which misses out on the key fact that winning lots of money is a lot more fun!
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As ever practice makes perfect so read, understand and play free poker at NoPayPOKER to learn to play poker online free and get your skills finely honed before going onward and kicking some ass.
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